Does Retinol Really Work? We Asked Dermatologists and Tested Over a Dozen Of Them to Find Out (2024)

Research shows that retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is one of the most effective anti-aging skincare ingredients—it protects against collagen degradation that tends to show up as sagginess, dullness, and fine lines. It also keeps skin smooth and clear by increasing skin cell turnover, explains Lindy Fox, MD, board-certified dermatologist and professor of dermatology at the University of California San Francisco. Retinol has many benefits; the catch is that the ingredient is extremely potent—and while over-the-counter versions are usually gentler than prescription-grade, they can still cause irritation while working their magic.

Although we didn't experience irritation or sensitivity to any of the products on this list, it's best to gradually introduce retinol into your skincare routine to minimize any potential sensitivity. Keep in mind that people who are pregnant, have eczema, or are at a high risk of skin cancer should not use retinol unless under the supervision of a doctor.

To determine our top retinol picks, we put 32 different retinol serums, oils, and creams to the test over a 12-week period. We evaluated the products based on how the retinol worked on dark spots, acne, fine lines, and dullness. Then, a dermatologist from our Medical Expert Board reviewed the content in this article regarding retinol formulation and use.

Retinols make up the over-the-counter available class of retinoids, a vitamin A derivative that has anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-pigment, and even anti-cancer benefits, says Kiran Mian, DO, FAAD, a dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery. Retinol can address nearly any skin concern you might have, from fine lines to uneven texture to a loss of elasticity to acne and hyperpigmentation.It works by boosting collagen production and increasing skin cell turnover, adds Dr. Fox.

Over-the-counter retinols are available in various concentration percentages, from 0.2% up to 3%. The higher the percentage, the more likely irritation is. The best concentration to use depends on your skin type and what it can tolerate, explains Dr. Mian.

Key Ingredients

You might see retinols listed on ingredient labels as retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, adapalene, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), or retinyl palmitate. Some labels disclose a concentration percentage, and others don’t—the best strength is the one your skin can tolerate, says Dr. Fox. The adjustment process may be aided by a formula containing calming, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, plant oils, and green tea.

The most effective retinol is prescription-strength tretinoin, explains Dr. Fox, which you can’t buy over the counter. The most effective retinol you can buy is one that works without causing irritation, which may take trial and error to find. However, Dr. Fox says hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) has been found to be equally as active as retinoic acid with less irritation.

Why We Like It

This cream was easy to apply, lightweight, non-greasy, and effective in our tests. It contains a blend of hydrating, nourishing ingredients like aloe, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, green tea, and plant oils to balance the sometimes irritating side effects of retinol, leaving behind a brighter, more even complexion without signs of redness or sensitivity. We noted that the formula did an especially great job at lightening dark spots, softening skin, and lessening the appearance of fine necklines.

The manufacturer recommends use in the morning and night, but it is generally recommended to limit retinol use to evenings, as it can cause photosensitivity during the day. We saw results using a small amount up to twice per week.

It's Worth Noting

Despite being labeled as “high potency,” the brand doesn’t disclaim the percentage concentration of retinol used.

Product Details:

• Type: Cream
• Retinol Concentration: Undisclosed
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin A, vitamin E, aloe green tea, shea butter
• Benefits: Lightens dark spots, smooths fine lines

Why We Like It

We tested this on dry skin and found the texture of this oil—which contains bakuchiol, a plant-derived ingredient found to function similarly to retinol—pleasantly nourishing. Twelve weeks of use brought about smoother, firmer skin and layered well with other nighttime skincare. The formula is vegan, carbon-neutral, and contains two simple ingredients: bakuchiol and squalene. It can be used on its own or mixed into moisturizers and serums for nighttime use.

It's Worth Noting

The oil-based formula may feel heavy or greasy on combination to oily skin types.

Product Details:

• Type: Oil
• Retinol Concentration: 1% bakuchiol
• Key Ingredients: Bakuchiol, squalene
• Benefits: Firms and smooths skin, plumps fine lines, lightens dark spots

Why We Like It

This product is great for those who have sensitive skin—and are also first-time retinol users. We didn’t experience a single reaction or irritation after using this formula two to three times per week for 12 weeks, which is impressive given its 1% retinol concentration. We also saw results in the form of tamed breakouts and a more even skin tone in a matter of days. The texture is more moisturizer than serum-like but hydrating and pleasant, nonetheless, thanks to added apricot kernel and squalene oils that work to prevent moisture loss. It also layered well under a thicker night cream and, over time, helped smooth uneven texture and brighten hyperpigmentation. When it came to fine lines, we noticed a minimal difference, but the overall resulting glow was still impressive.

It's Worth Noting

Although it’s marketed as a serum, it has more of a lightweight cream texture.

Product Details:

• Type: Serum-cream
• Retinol Concentration: 1%
• Key Ingredients: retinol, apricot kernel oil, squalene
• Benefits: Treats acne, smooths uneven texture, brightens dark spots
  

Why We Like It

Looking to bring dull skin back to life? A retinol oil will give a physical glow thanks to the product's consistency; over time, its ingredients can brighten your complexion. That’s precisely what this one delivered; we also found our skin felt smoother and smoother even after 12 weeks of use. Ceramides and peptides in the formula contribute to hydration and firming, and the oil carrier allows for a gentle, nourished delivery of retinol actives that can sometimes cause dryness.

Although this oil worked well in the evening and brightened the skin, it did little to tame breakouts.

It's Worth Noting

We noticed it has a distinct smell—similar to popcorn.

Product Details:

• Type: Oil
• Retinol Concentration: Undisclosed
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, ceramides, peptides
• Benefits: Smooths uneven texture, brightens dark spots

Why We Like It

The name says it all: This retinol, formulated with emollients to deliver it gently yet effectively, works “rapidly” to diminish the appearance of wrinkles. More specifically, we found that it erased fine under-eye lines and softened smile lines. As for dark spots, texture, and hyperpigmentation, we didn’t notice much of a difference in those, but they also weren’t our biggest skin concern. The silky serum layered well with other products, and the pump packaging allowed for hygienic storage and application.

It's Worth Noting

A warming, tingling sensation may occur if overused.

Product Details:

• Type: Serum
• Retinol Concentration: Undisclosed
• Key Ingredients: Retinol SA
• Benefits: Smooths fine lines

Why We Like It

If you tend to get congestion—little bumps and rough texture—along your chin and forehead, this serum may help. We noted that it rid our skin of a similar problem, but not without a skin purging phase (a short-term worsening of breakouts as the skin adjusts to a new active ingredient). Over time, smoother, glowier skin was revealed—and when the occasional breakout did surface, the lightweight serum helped it heal quickly without leaving behind darkness or scarring. Ceramides, peptides, and licorice root prevented irritation and dryness, too.

It's Worth Noting

It has a strong scent of sulfur.

Product Details:

• Type: Serum
• Retinol Concentration: 1%
• Key Ingredients: Encapsulated retinol, ceramides, peptides
• Benefits: Smooths texture, clarifies pores, renews skin radiance

Why We Like It

If potential irritation or reactions intimidate you when it comes to retinol, an oil is your best bet, because the viscous texture delivers ingredients slowly and gently. This oil, in particular, is especially gentle at a 0.5% concentration of retinol—a great pick for first-time retinol users. And despite being mostly virgin marula oil, we found that an ampule of product didn’t take long to sink in—around 30 to 45 seconds—which makes it easy to go to bed knowing the pillow won’t get most of your product.

It's Worth Noting

We didn’t notice dramatic results, but also didn’t experience any adverse reactions.

Product Details:

• Type: Oil
• Retinol Concentration: 0.5%
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, marula oil, ceramides
• Benefits: Smooths texture and fine lines, brightens pigmentation

Why We Like It

After 12 weeks, we noticed that this serum left our typically dry skin looking “poreless,” smooth, and plump. We also noticed a decrease in breakouts after using it. That’s all thanks to a blend of retinol, antioxidants, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that exfoliate away flakiness and defend against free-radical damage. The serum has a creamy gel texture that makes applying it feel ultra-hydrating rather than irritating. It also absorbs easily and leaves behind a slight glowy sheen rather than a greasy residue. It also layers well with moisturizer and other skincare without pilling.

It's Worth Noting

Product Details:

• Type: Serum
• Retinol Concentration: Undisclosed
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, AHAs, apple fruit extract
• Benefits: Smooths texture and fine lines, brightens pigmentation, prevents breakouts

Why We Like It

A low retinol percentage makes this serum-oil hybrid great for sensitive skin or retinol beginners who are worried about damaging their skin’s barrier. Although it’s marketed as a serum, we found it to apply more like an oil—and that’s because it’s made with multiple oils, including castor, squalene, and grapeseed, all of which work to buffer potential irritation. After 12 weeks of use, we found our skin looked firmer, brighter, and more even overall and experienced no irritation, but we didn’t notice much of a difference in fine lines.

It's Worth Noting

It comes in individual capsules which aren’t very sustainable.

Product Details:

• Type: Serum
• Retinol Concentration: 0.2%
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, plant oils
• Benefits: Smooths texture, firms, evens skin tone

Why We Like It

This ultra-concentrated stick formula contains both 3% encapsulated retinol and bakuchiol, its plant-based alternative. It also contains a fruit enzyme that works with the other active ingredients to target fine lines, texture, and dark spots. We found the stick to be super easy to work with, and we particularly enjoyed the moisturized sheen it left behind that wasn’t too drying or too heavy. Unlike creams or oils, it easily absorbed into the skin and left it feeling soft.

It's Worth Noting

Cross contamination is possible if you don’t apply it to clean skin every time.

Product Details:

• Type: Stick
• Retinol Concentration: 3%
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, plant oils
• Benefits: Smooths texture, firms, evens skin tone

To find the best retinol on the market, we tested 32 of the most popular retinol products over the course of 12 weeks. We followed the manufacturer’s instructions and applied it at least twice weekly. We took before-and-after pictures and monitored our skin for improved texture, tone, and brightness during use. We accessed each product based on the following:

• Absorption: We noted how well the product absorbed into our skin and whether it left behind any residue, sheen, tackiness, dryness, or oiliness. We also noted how well the retinoid layered under other products.
• Consistency: We described the product's texture and consistency, how it felt on the skin, and whether the type of formula (e.g., cream, serum, oil, etc.) worked well. We also noted the scent/fragrance.
• Feel: We observed whether it effectively addressed our skin concerns, if it caused any sensitivity or irritation, if we noticed any unusual dryness or oiliness, and if we experienced our skin ‘purging.’
• Appearance: At the end of the test, we assessed whether or not the retinoid lessened the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, etc. We also looked for any change in the texture or appearance of our skin and whether it helped clear up acne, blemishes, and dark spots or made our skin look more radiant or even.

The Experts

• Lindy Fox, MD, board-certified dermatologist, professor of dermatology, and director of the inpatient consultation service at the University of California San Francisco
• Kiran Mian, DO, FAAD, dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery

• The RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Anti-Aging Night Cream was easy to apply and layer with other skincare, but underperformed, results-wise, compared to the others on this list.
• The Maelove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum took a long time to absorb and had an artificial smell. When we tested it, it also potentially caused a purging reaction.
• The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane is super affordable, but it didn’t deliver noticeable results and caused a purging reaction when we tested it.
  

Who We Are

Kayla Blanton is a freelance writer with a bachelor's degree in journalism and a specialization in public health and women, gender, and sexuality studies. She's covered health, nutrition, lifestyle, and beauty at various outlets for five years and has interviewed dozens of dermatologists about sunscreen.